all the pattern pieces are cut now. it was pretty tricky to get the grain lined up - i wanted to avoid cutting a single layer if at all possible so in the end i tacked a row of stitches along the grain down the centre and 2 more at equal distance either side. then i folded along the centre stitching and matched up the second row of stitches and the selvedges, which seems to have worked fine. i found it worked better for the small pieces to lay a ruler along the grain and align to that as measuring the grainline on the piece just left them wonky.
it really was a squeeze to get them all in, i only had room for a 10mm SA. there's a couple of nicks in the seam allowances where pieces overlapped but nothing major.
i cut everything with the nap running upwards. my natural urge was to have it going downwards so it felt smooth to run your hand down, but the embroidery stands out much better against a matt, rather than shiny, background.
not likely to get any sewing done over the weekend, but i will try to get the lining pieces cut (pocket and hem facings) and do some tests with the iron and interfacing on my meagre leftover scraps.